THE  GLOBE AND MAIL (CANADA), Monday, February 27, 2006 BY DOUG SAUNDERS
  
 MITROVICA -- Lifelong farmers Bozidar and Gordana Ahtic live  illegally in an abandoned, half-finished apartment complex in a refugee-crammed  city on the northern edge of a place that is not part of any recognized  country.
  
 They have no nation, no passport and no ability to visit  their valley farm without weeks of planning and considerable danger. Fleeing is  impossible, because their United Nations ID cards are not recognized at any  national border.
  
 The soft-spoken couple in their late sixties are  quintessential citizens of the current Balkans. Their lives are tenuous, their  borders uncertain, their status ambiguous.
  
 But all that is about to change. This region was known as  Yugoslavia before Slobodan Milosevic's ethnic cleansing campaign of the 1990s  turned it into a cartographer's nightmare and an expensive ward of international  organizations. This year it is about to undergo some dramatic  upheavals.
  
 Canada has poured more than a billion dollars and thousands  of peacekeepers into this corner of Europe during the past 15 years, and in many  ways this year's decisions will determine whether it was all worth it. The  former Yugoslavia is, after all, the first post-Cold War experiment in  international nation-building. With the brokered end of the Bosnian war in 1995  and the 2000 surrender of Mr. Milosevic after a NATO bombing campaign (which  cost Canada $500-million), more than 100,000 international soldiers, aid workers  and overseers moved into the five countries of the former Yugoslavia in hopes of  turning them into peaceful democracies. But it is still not clear whether these  can achieve a lasting peace.
  
 And the Ahtics, members of the small and persecuted Serb  minority in poor, Albanian-dominated Kosovo, are now pawns. Their small  population is the most fought-after group in this region of Serbia, and their  response to the coming changes could determine whether this year will see a move  toward peaceful, European-style co-operation or a step back into the horrifying  ethnic showdowns of the past.
  
 But, as far as they are concerned, their interests are much  simpler. "I just want to be able to go to my farm, and live in it, without  someone burning it down or stealing all its cows," Mr. Ahtic says as he wrestles  his pickup truck out of a parking garage.
  
 But, in a sign of the tensions that will make this year's  international negotiations extremely tense, his simple request is not so easy to  grant. Despite billions of dollars spent by the UN, NATO and the European Union,  some seemingly simple things are still impossible here.
  
 The other day, Mr. Ahtic did what the United Nations  officials who run Kosovo describe this way: "A group of K-Serb IDPs were  assisted on a pre-return GSV across the Mitrovica boundary."
  
 That is, he and some other Kosovo Serbs, who became  Internally Displaced Persons after their farms were destroyed by angry Albanians  in 1999 in revenge against Serbs for Mr. Milosevic's mass slaughter of  Albanians, were driven for a heavily guarded "Go-to-See-Visit" to their  half-wrecked farmhouses in a city completely divided between its ethnically  Albanian south and Serb north.
  
 Now the UN, the EU, NATO and most of the governments in this  region want such delicate and expensive international hand-holding to come to an  end. In the years since NATO bombs put a stop to Mr. Milosevic in 1999, the  region has been technically at peace. But its cities are clogged with more than  500,000 refugees like the Ahtics, its key regions are either isolated rogue  states (Serbia-Montenegro) or wards of the UN and the EU (Bosnia-Herzegovina and  Kosovo), its ambiguous status has turned it into the international centre for  human trafficking, drug smuggling, slavery, organized crime and Islamist  terrorist cells. The stakes of this year's decisions are extremely high. This  is, after all, a region that has historically sent waves of violence and  extremism across Europe. It's also a chance to prove that nation-building can  work at a time when support for such efforts in Iraq and Afghanistan is  waning.
  
 So three crucial decisions will be made this year, under the  close watch of international monitors, that will change the future of the region  and redraw the map of Europe:
  
 This spring, the people of Montenegro, a tiny, mountainous  slice that, since 2003 has been called a "distinct society" in the nation now  known as Serbia-Montenegro, will hold a referendum on independence. If they vote  Yes, as is expected, then Europe will gain a new country, and Serbians will feel  their territory shrink.
  
 By the end of the year, Bosnia-Herzegovina will likely stop  being a colony of the international community and become a single, united  nation. Since its horrendous war ended in 1995 with the Dayton accord, it has  been divided into dysfunctional ethnic enclaves: The Serb-controlled Republika  Srpska; and the Bosnian Muslim and Croatian Federation of Bosnia and  Herzegovina, both overseen by a European Union representative. And that  representative, Christian Schwarz-Schilling, said in an interview at his  Sarajevo office last week that he plans to be the last person to hold that job,  and to transform Bosnia-Herzegovina by the end of this year.
  
 Most crucially, the future of Kosovo, the disputed  Albanian-dominated southern province of Serbia that became a UN protectorate  after Mr. Milosevic's forces were driven out in 1999, will have its status  resolved in international talks that resumed last week. The result will almost  certainly turn it into an independent nation.
  
 All three decisions run the risk of turning what remains of  Serbia back into the angry, nationalistic, expansionist power that it became in  the 1990s. Or Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and their neighbours could follow the  former Yugoslav countries of Slovenia and Croatia, which have become prosperous,  tourist-friendly European countries in recent years. Much depends on the  reaction of Serbs in Serbia, and even more on those Serbs who live in  Bosnia-Herzegovina and Kosovo.
  
 Officials from Serbia's government, and the UN and EU  officials who are overseeing the Kosovo negotiations, say they are terrified  that hundreds of thousands of displaced, angry Serbs from Kosovo, like Mr.  Ahtic, will flee northward, or that the Serb population, who see Kosovo as their  religious and historical heartland, will be radicalized and elect another  violent ethnic-nationalist strongman like Mr. Milosevic.
  
 For his part, Mr. Ahtic finds little comfort in his  political influence. On a rare visit the other day to the ghost town that was  his farming village, he stepped through the burned-out wreckage of his  once-productive farm. He surveyed the decaying frame of the new house built by  the UN, which he was forced to abandon in March of 2004 during a second wave of  Albanian riots and killings. The village lost 600 cows and 16 tractors, and all  its residents fled.
  
 Given this experience, he was surprisingly eager to see  Kosovo's status resolved this year, even if it becomes an independent nation  with an Albanian majority.
  
 "I want to stay here, in Kosovo, tending to my farm, and  I'll do it if only there can be enough security that I know my family won't be  attacked. If there isn't security, I may have to go to Serbia, but I'm not  wanted there, either."
  
 There are other signs of optimism throughout the region. To  visit Bosnia's capital, Sarajevo, or Belgrade in Serbia today is to find lively,  comparatively prosperous cities with a cosmopolitan bent: Serbs now are vast  consumers of Croatian and Slovenian TV, pop music and food, and Belgrade has  become a party destination for Croats and Bosnians. Sarajevo, the shell-cratered  Bosnian capital where thousands died in a three-year siege, has regained the  spirit of multiethnic jouissance that it enjoyed before the massacres, and has  become a leading European centre for theatre and filmmaking.
  
 There are those who feel that Serbia is returning to  moderation, and will propel the whole region into European  normalcy.
  
 "I strongly believe the country is on the right track. It's  just a question of the speed," said Marko Blagojevic, a pollster with the Center  for Free Elections and Democracy in Belgrade. "There are really two Serbias.  There's the one Serbia that supports the values of the democratic reformers.  Those are pro-European values. And on the other hand there are those who share  the values of the socialists and the radicals; Milosevic's  values."
  
 But this optimism quickly fades if you step outside the  major cities. And, as Mr. Blagojevic's polls indicate, Serbia's political  balance is extremely unstable. The country is in many ways still a pariah state,  isolated from European and world affairs. The EU has made it clear that Serbia  will continue to be shunned until it allows Kosovo to go its own way and finds  Ratko Mladic and Radovan Karadzic, the military and political leaders  responsible for the most horrific mass murders of the 1990s wars, handing them  over to the international court in The Hague. Serbian officials have indicated  that they are in negotiations with Mr. Mladic's people, hold Mr. Karadzic in  their sights, and are willing to compromise on Kosovo.
  
 But in the countryside of Serbia, in the Serb-minority  districts of Kosovo, and in Bosnia's Serb-dominated district of Republika  Srpska, many Serbs are not interested in turning their backs on the  ethnic-nationalist past. In fact, they are becoming less, not more,  European-oriented.
  
 This becomes painfully clear on a visit to Novi Sad, a city  in northern Serbia that was until recently a model example of multiethnic Balkan  harmony. Even during Mr. Milosevic's worst years, Novi Sad saw Serbs living  happily beside the region's many minorities.
  
 But something has changed. And the change arrived on the  outskirts of town, where as many as 100,000 Serb refugees from Croatia and  Bosnia-Herzegovina moved in and built makeshift villages that are quickly  becoming permanent settlements. These new Serbs do not share the tolerant,  cosmopolitan views of their established neighbours. And they have begun to leave  their mark.
  
 "They harass my children for not having a Serb name, and  wait outside my apartment to threaten me," says Marina Fratucan, a producer with  the local TV station. She is Serb, but has an unusual name and, more  importantly, has friends who are Croatian, Bosnian and Hungarian. "The problem  is that the Serb children are not becoming more tolerant, in fact they're  becoming more radical and nationalistic than their parents."
  
 Sonja Biserko offers a tour of the streets. As the director  of the local branch of the Helsinki Committee for Human Rights, she watched the  Balkans move toward democracy and harmony after the defeat of Mr. Milosevic in  1999 and is now watching that harmony fall apart.
  
 "Here we have a secondary school, which has become filled  with Serb refugees, across the road from a bakery whose owners are Albanian,"  she says. "And that bakery across the road was demolished this year by students  who were from the refugee population. And local people are not revolting against  this. The refugees have actually radicalized many of the locals against  minorities. When Kosovo gets its independence, it will be a big problem  here."
  
 So instead of becoming a united country, Serbia is in danger  of splitting apart or radicalizing. Just north of Novi Sad, the ethnic-Hungarian  minority are now talking of forming their own Hungario-Serbian breakaway state,  modelled after Kosovo, if things become even more intolerant.
  
 Most Serbs are extremely poor, and many cling to the  national and Orthodox Christian myths that propelled the Milosevic crusades.  Should Montenegro declare independence, Kosovo become autonomous and the  Republika Srpska subsumed into a multiethnic Bosnia-Herzegovina, the Serbs could  become angry and defensive.
  
 This is the worry of Serbia's negotiators in the Kosovo  talks, who seem to have a genuine fear of a return to radical ethnic  nationalism.
  
 "If someone suddenly says, this is an independent Kosovo,  the very next day we will have 150,000 refugees coming across the border,"  Radomir Diklic, a chief negotiator, said in an interview. "So generally, we have  to take an approach where nobody can call themselves a total winner or a total  loser. . . . Still, either you are independent or you are not. And if you are,  then the door is open for radical, nationalistic, fascistic forces in Serbia to  take control. Then this government can say, 'Bye bye.' "
  
 And for the millions of people of the Balkans who have seen  their countries slowly move toward becoming normal nations, rather than bizarre  scribbles on the map, the prospect of a radicalized Serbia is truly  terrifying.
  
 This year's momentous decisions will see this whole  convoluted corner of Europe become either a more normal place, or return to its  former status as Europe's worst nightmare. "By the time 2006 is over, much will  be resolved," said Milan Antonijevic, an activist lawyer in Belgrade. "For the  people of Serbia, it will be much clearer, and if we can handle it well, our  lives will be much better."
  
 But it could all go terribly wrong as it has before in the  Balkans. But there is a sense of hope among many in this region. Most want to be  part of Europe, polls show, and know that this is the last chance in a  lifetime.
  
 "We have to have optimism to make this work," says Mr.  Schwarz-Schilling, the EU's representative in Bosnia-Herzegovina. "This is a  huge window of history for all parties, and it is a window that could close  fast, so therefore this must be done at a higher speed than it would in other  countries. To introduce democracy, to introduce rule of law, to introduce a  market economy, normally, this needs much more time. But the global pressures on  this region mean that it has to be done very fast here."